Barrel Helm

It's period. It's easy to make. It can look great when accessorised properly. It's great protection. It is able to be customised so many ways. It's the barrel helm, a simple form of the great helm.

Unlilke the legs, arms and shoulders etc, helms use 2mm (12ga) steel. I usually use 2mm cold rolled mild steel .

Print the pattern pieces, remembering that the patterns as they appear on the site are half of the full piece. You have to mirror the pattern along the dotted line to get the full piece. The measurements are written on the patterns, so be sure to check that they are correct by measuring carefully! Trace the pieces and cut them out using your favoured implement of destruction.

Next, curve all the pieces into a semi-circle. The tops of each piece should be flat when you finish (so the pieces are all "coned" slightly when curving them.

Now, overlap the back top and the front top by about 10mm. 5mm in from each edge of the from top piece drill 4 holes for your rivets. The top and bottom holes also start 5mm from the top and bottom edges respectively. Clamp the two pieces together using vice grips or firmly taping, or any other method that keeps the bits where you want them to be. The top back piece nestles inside the front piece. With the pieces in place you can mark where to drill the holes in the backplate.

When drilling it is always best to use a centrepunch to ensure the drill bit doesn't skitter off, and use a tungsten carbide bit (they last longer, and give a cleaner cut). Drill the holes in the backplate and use tinners rivets to join the front and back top pieces, peining the rivets over on the outside.

Next, repeat the process for the two bottom pieces. Then just put a 15mm lip on the bottom rim of the top piece over a bit to match the angle on the lower pieces. The top pieces fit over the bottom piece. Draw a line 5mm from the bottom edge of the top piece. Find the centre back of the top pieces. This is your first rivet hole position. The, on the line you've drawn, place a rivet hole every 30-35mm. Clamp the top piece over the bottom piece, and rivet from the centre back around to the front (alternating from left side to right side) until you have riveted it all together. Remeber you are not permitted a more than 1" (25mm) gap in your eyeslot. Any more than this, and you'll have to add a bar grill. Of course, if you opt for an open faced helm, you'll have to put bars on any way!

Now, pop the helm on you head, and squish it to fit evenly around your head before you attach the top. You'll note there is no pattern for the top. That's because you're going to make it now. Place the helm top side down on your 2mm steel, and trace the outline. Now draw a second line 20mm out from that if you are rivetting your top on, or 5mm outside it if you are welding it on. Cut the top out. If you are rivetting the helm, you need to fold the edge of the top over to match the angle of the helmet sides, then find the centre back and drill your first rivet hole there. Put a rivet hole every 30-35mm around the lip, then mark ech hole position with a pen on the helmet sides. Rivet the top to the rest of the helm, adjusting it with the hammer as you go for a good fit. If you're welding the top on, run a bead around the inside, the another around the outside and grind/file the metal back till it's flush.

All you have to do now is finish the faceplate by drilling breather holes if you have a closed helm, or putting bars on. Pad the helm, and put a chin strap on, and you should be ready to go!

Side view of an open-faced barrel helm showing the riveting and bar attachment

Internal view showing the riveting and the welded top (rather than the bent over and riveted top).

		Azure, in chief in fess 3 frets couped Or
Fighting Videos SCA Combat Music Page Last updated 27-May-2007	Barrel Helm It's period. It's easy to make. It can look great when accessorised properly. It's great protection. It is able to be customised so many ways. It's the barrel helm, a simple form of the great helm. Unlilke the legs, arms and shoulders etc, helms use 2mm (12ga) steel. I usually use 2mm cold rolled mild steel . Print the pattern pieces, remembering that the patterns as they appear on the site are half of the full piece. You have to mirror the pattern along the dotted line to get the full piece. The measurements are written on the patterns, so be sure to check that they are correct by measuring carefully! Trace the pieces and cut them out using your favoured implement of destruction. Next, curve all the pieces into a semi-circle. The tops of each piece should be flat when you finish (so the pieces are all "coned" slightly when curving them. Now, overlap the back top and the front top by about 10mm. 5mm in from each edge of the from top piece drill 4 holes for your rivets. The top and bottom holes also start 5mm from the top and bottom edges respectively. Clamp the two pieces together using vice grips or firmly taping, or any other method that keeps the bits where you want them to be. The top back piece nestles inside the front piece. With the pieces in place you can mark where to drill the holes in the backplate. When drilling it is always best to use a centrepunch to ensure the drill bit doesn't skitter off, and use a tungsten carbide bit (they last longer, and give a cleaner cut). Drill the holes in the backplate and use tinners rivets to join the front and back top pieces, peining the rivets over on the outside. Next, repeat the process for the two bottom pieces. Then just put a 15mm lip on the bottom rim of the top piece over a bit to match the angle on the lower pieces. The top pieces fit over the bottom piece. Draw a line 5mm from the bottom edge of the top piece. Find the centre back of the top pieces. This is your first rivet hole position. The, on the line you've drawn, place a rivet hole every 30-35mm. Clamp the top piece over the bottom piece, and rivet from the centre back around to the front (alternating from left side to right side) until you have riveted it all together. Remeber you are not permitted a more than 1" (25mm) gap in your eyeslot. Any more than this, and you'll have to add a bar grill. Of course, if you opt for an open faced helm, you'll have to put bars on any way! Now, pop the helm on you head, and squish it to fit evenly around your head before you attach the top. You'll note there is no pattern for the top. That's because you're going to make it now. Place the helm top side down on your 2mm steel, and trace the outline. Now draw a second line 20mm out from that if you are rivetting your top on, or 5mm outside it if you are welding it on. Cut the top out. If you are rivetting the helm, you need to fold the edge of the top over to match the angle of the helmet sides, then find the centre back and drill your first rivet hole there. Put a rivet hole every 30-35mm around the lip, then mark ech hole position with a pen on the helmet sides. Rivet the top to the rest of the helm, adjusting it with the hammer as you go for a good fit. If you're welding the top on, run a bead around the inside, the another around the outside and grind/file the metal back till it's flush. All you have to do now is finish the faceplate by drilling breather holes if you have a closed helm, or putting bars on. Pad the helm, and put a chin strap on, and you should be ready to go! Side view of an open-faced barrel helm showing the riveting and bar attachment Internal view showing the riveting and the welded top (rather than the bent over and riveted top).
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